Admiralty Crossing – Packraft Style
- On August 02, 2015
- By Randall Tate
- In Alaska, Camping, Editorial, Trips, Wilderness
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Admiralty Island in Southeast Alaska is known as Kootznoowoo to the native Tlingit. It means “Fortress of the Bears.” It’s an apt title as the island holds the largest concentration of Brown Bears on the planet. Knowing that, you would think a rifle might be a better packing choice than a can of bear spray if you went for a visit. But in our experience, you would be wrong. Despite containing one bear per square mile, it was surprisingly difficult to spot one of these enormous creatures.
We paddled and hiked 36 miles of saltwater inlets, temperate rainforest and pristine lakes in the heart of Kootznoowoo and were never granted an appearance of Ursus arctos. Despite the lack of bears, the trip is incredible and makes for one of the best packrafting adventures in the country. A string of National Forest Service cabins make for some fantastic “glamping” along the way.

Boarding the ferry for Angoon

The man who picked us up and drove us to the other side of the island said we were the first hitchhikers he had ever seen in his 60+ years in Angoon.

Racing to inflate the packrafts and catch the flooding tide into Kootznoowoo Inlet

Having lost the trail and spent hours trying to find it, we decided to pitch our tarp and wait for the bears to join us for dinner.

Inside one of the cozy Forest Service cabins

Getting a little help from the wind

Couldn’t have said it better

Wild Blueberries

There is no time for niceties or a safety briefing when the tide is dropping. Just get in and go.
Among The Ice
- On August 15, 2013
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping, Sea Kayaking
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Glacier Bay National Park is a 600,000 acre playground encompassing water, ice, rock and forest. It is also the site of the fastest documented glacier recession in human history. Because of this, the land and sea are in a constant state of change. As you cruise from the head of the bay into the arms, you are in essence seeing what the land looked like further back in time. You can stand amongst old growth temperate rainforest where just 250 years ago in the same spot, an immense glacier scoured the earth.
For two summers I have guided people into some of the furthest reaches of Glacier Bay. Every time I slid my kayak back onto the boat or stepped off the shore, I had to fight the urge to just stay. It is a wild, untouched place that is incredibly hard to access. No roads connect the park to the rest of the world. In that sense, working on a boat has incredible benefits. We were dropped off deep inside the park boundary and paddled for seven heavenly days into the East Arm, a section of the park that sees few visitors. It was a wonderful journey and at last…we were able to just stay.

Seven days of food in three small bearproof cans

A humpback whale surfaces just 100 yards from our kayaks

The mother ship arrives to pick us up
Ace’s Front Yard
- On April 30, 2013
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping, Canyoneering, Desert, Hiking, Wilderness
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Ace’s front yard is big, really big. It’s so vast that you need a backpack, camping gear, two weeks of food, a map and a compass just to cross it. The entire yard is close to 2 million acres so walking out into it without a plan is not the brightest of ideas. We spent a few days trekking through it with him, his “dawg” Genghis and some other friends. We never even came close to the other side.

Water is everything in the desert

Nature’s artistry at work
The Land of Sky Blue Waters
- On September 19, 2012
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping
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Some say that the Boundary Waters Canoe Area is the crown jewel of Minnesota’s outdoor destinations. If that’s true, then the Superior Hiking Trail is the crown. This 18″ wide footpath extends 286 miles from Duluth to the Canadian Border along the north shore of Lake Superior. The trail winds through a mix of boreal and deciduous forests as it rises and descends from the shores of the world’s largest freshwater lake.
Spending a few nights on the trail with my Darlin’ allowed me to show her what makes Northern Minnesota such a wonderful place to be from.
Man Meets Dog.
- On June 08, 2011
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping, Desert, Hiking, Uncategorized
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You know those couples that can’t ever be apart? They never leave eachother’s side. They exercise together, they use the bathroom at the same time and they even work together. After a while, you realize that you never actually see one without the other.
Well I know one those couples. It’s Ace Kvale and Genghis Khan. I’m not sure who is more dependent on the other. Neither one ever makes a move alone. I’m sure Ace likes to think that he has Genghis trained, but it’s definitely the other way around. I’ve never seen a dog that can deliver guilt to its owner so effectively. I mean what other dog gets their human to carry a down vest, sleeping bag and pad into the backcountry for them? Lucky dog.
Read More»Patagonia, Chile
- On March 23, 2009
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping, Hiking, Mountains, Traveling
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Before venturing into Torres del Paine National Park, you usually spend a night in the gateway town of Puerto Natales. It’s the place to gear up and buy food. While you’re there, you can attend a free orientation at the Erratic Rock Hostel. I would recommend it. Owned and operated by guides and climbers, The Rock is your one-stop-shop for accommodation, gear and advice. I was surprised to walk into the orientation and see a familiar face, Rustyn, a former RMI guide and co-worker from Mt. Rainier. His advice was concise, honed and to spot on. Waterproof jacket? Leave it in your pack. Patagonia has a way of soaking you no matter what. Save it and your dry clothes for camp.
Read More»Patagonia, Argentina
- On March 17, 2009
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping, Hiking, Mountains, Self-Assignment, Traveling, Uncategorized
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I like Patagonia. From the moment I touched down in Lima, this mystical place had been pulling at the back of my mind, always ushering me further south. I saved Patagonia for last and was glad I did. It was at the end of the road figuratively and literally. And no place before or after could compare.
Read More»-25°F Winter Camping
- On January 24, 2009
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping, Trips
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Fresh off of four days on the beach in Cancun, we decided to punish ourselves and go winter camping. It just happened to be -25°F outside. No problem, we had wall tents, wood stoves and whiskey. The three Ws.
Apostle Islands
- On September 24, 2008
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping, Sea Kayaking, Trips
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Sea kayaking in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.
Read More»Deer Creek
- On July 28, 2008
- By Randall Tate
- In Camping, Canyoneering, Desert
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Ace, Justin, Mitchells and I went exploring Deer Creek. It just happened to be after some heavy rains that turned the water into coffee. Here are some of Ace and Justin’s photos.
Read More»
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